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Basic Brewing Instructions

 

These directions will walk you through the basic steps of brewing an ale beer from extract. The directions can be used for brewing with hopped or unhopped extract as well as different fermentors. Your ingredients can include corn sugar, as recommended by many beer kits, however, this sugar is primarily used as an inexpensive substitute for malt sugar. The corn sugar will not contribute any body or malt flavor. It tends to lighten the beer, though it does add to the alcohol content. Sugar whether it is malt sugar (malt extract) or corn sugar adds food for the yeast and thereby produces alcohol. The more food you give the yeast the more alcohol it will produce up to a point where it kills itself with the very alcohol that it produces. You should use at least 60% (we prefer 100%) malt in order to insure that the yeast has proper nutrients to ferment correctly. If you decide to use all malt, which gives a fuller bodied, richer taste, then you should use at least 8 lbs. or more of syrup malt extract. If using dried malt extract, at least 6 lbs. should be used. The amount will depend on the body and strength desired. Remember that malt sugar adds fermentables which produce alcohol as well as adding malt flavor which contributes to body. If you are using a hopped extract then hops are not necessary but can be added to give more flavor and aroma to the finished product. When using an unhopped extract then the addition of hops is necessary. About 2 oz. should do the trick. Yeast is required and often provided with beer kits, but always make sure! There's nothing worse than not having yeast when you need it. Be sure to check that it is the appropriate yeast for the beer you are trying to create. Remember ale yeast ferments on the surface and does so in warm temperatures (ideally between 60 and 70 degrees F) but it works at higher temps too so don't worry. True lager yeast ferments on the bottom at temps between 45-55 degrees F and true lager cultures often strictly require adherence to this temperature range. Extract cans often claim to be lager but in fact are light colored ales and should be fermented at warm ale temperatures. Real cold fermenting strains are available as liquid cultures stored in our refrigerator. The water you will use will vary on what you prefer to drink. If you don't like tap water don't use it, and use bottled water. Do not use distilled, as it lacks necessary minerals for healthy fermentation.

Brewing An Ale From Extract

1.
Into a large stock pot (approx.12 quart) put 1.5 gallons water and bring to boil.
2. Once the water is boiling, remove it from heat. This avoids scorching the malt on the bottom of the pot after extract is added.
* If you are using a BEER KIT CAN then you must also add some type of sugar, either more malt extract or corn sugar to make five gallons. If using corn sugar add 5 cups to your malt extract mix in pot. If using dry malt add a 3 pound bag.
* If using bags of UNHOPPED DRIED MALT EXTRACT use only the malt in the bags and nothing else. No other sugar is needed since the malt contains all of the fermentable sugar that you will need. You will need corn sugar for bottling. Be sure to mix and dissolve ingredients completely before returning to heat!

*If using a bucket of UNHOPPED BULK MALT EXTRACT (syrup) use only the malt in the bucket and nothing else. No other sugar is needed since the malt contains all of the fermentable sugar that you will need. You will need corn sugar for bottling. Be sure to mix and dissolve ingredients completely before returning to heat!
3. Place the pot back on the heat and bring it to a boil. At this point, the mixture is called wort (pronounced wert). Wort is a term for the unfermented beer.
If you are using a hopped malt extract can and you are not adding bittering hops, then you boil for 15 minutes. You may add finishing hops to this mixture in the last minute. If you are using an unhopped malt extract (bulk malt) then you will need to add bittering hops which should be boiled for a minimum of 45 minutes (we suggest a 60 minutes). The first few minutes back on heat, avoid a "boil over" by continual surveillance. Stirring or skimming the top will help reduce the chances of a "boil over" happening. Continue with a vigorous boil until next ingredient is added. Additional finishing hops should be added at last minute of boil to impart aroma and some flavor.

*ANYTHING TOUCHING THE BEER AFTER THIS POINT NEEDS TO BE CLEAN AND SANITIZED!*

4. Cool your wort with cold water in the fermentor. It is a good idea to chill 3-4 gallons of water overnight. If you don't mind the tap water, it will work fine. If you don't like the extra chlorine though, just get any type of filtered water at the store--not distilled though.
5. Follow the directions for the type of fermentor that you have: either a 6 gallon plastic bucket, or a 7 gallon glass carboy.
For a 6 Gallon Plastic Bucket: 5a. Into a sanitized primary fermentor (plastic bucket) that you have already made a 5 gallon mark on, add your boiled wort and approx. 3.5 gallons cold water up to your 5 gallon mark. More or less water may be added to achieve this mark. Your beer is now highly susceptible to contamination so remember to sanitize all equipment coming into contact with it. If you want to record the gravity of your beer this is the time to use your hydrometer. This mixture should stabilize at room temperature and be ready for pitching your yeast. Snap down lid onto bucket. Place a sanitized rubber stopper on to the sanitized airlock and insert the stopper into the bucket lid. Fill airlock half-way with water. This allows CO2 gas to escape without letting in the bad things.
For a 6.5 Gallon Glass Carboy: 5b. Into a sanitized primary fermentor (7 gallon glass carboy) that you have already made a 5 gallon mark on, add 2 gallons cold water. This water will prevent cracking due to thermal shock when you pour your hot wort in. Now, funnel in your hot wort directly into the cold water taking care not to allow the hot wort to run down the sides as it may crack the carboy. Next, add more cold water up to your 5 gallon mark. Your beer is now highly susceptible to contamination so remember to sanitize all equipment coming into contact with it. If you want to record the gravity of your beer this is the time to use your hydrometer. This mixture should stabilize at room temperature and be ready for pitching your yeast. Place sanitized airlock into rubber stopper and insert into the mouth of the bottle. Remove the top of the airlock and fill half-way with water. This allows CO2 gas to escape without letting in the bad things.
6. To use the hydrometer first cover your fermentor with saran wrap, then shake it to mix the ingredients thoroughly. Often the hotter, thicker wort will settle to the bottom. Make sure the fermentor is at an even temperature throughout to get an accurate reading. Remove saran wrap and pour out a sample into a pint glass. Pour this sample into the hydrometer test jar. Replace airlock or blow-off tubing and then check the gravity by floating hydrometer in flask. For best results the hydrometer reading should be taken at 60 degrees F. Where the fluid meets the glass rod is where the reading should be taken on the specific gravity scale.
7. When wort has cooled to room temperature add the yeast by sprinkling (do not rehydrate dried yeast) or pouring the contents of one package over the wort. Make sure the airlock or lid is covering your fermentor securely
8. Let it sit and make sure it starts bubbling out the airlock within 24 hours. If it doesn't your yeast may be ineffective. It should ferment actively for about 2-6 days. After that, the beer will need time to settle and clear. 10-12 days total is a good benchmark for the beer to be in the fermentor. Just make sure it has stopped bubbling when you decide to bottle or is bubbling no more than once every thirty seconds. If you are using a hydrometer the reading should be approximately 1.010 to 1.020 . If it is higher but inactive then just make sure it remains at a constant reading over three days. Your beer may ferment in as little as two days due to highly active yeast or warmer temperatures. Just be sure it is finished and wait 8 days even if it looks like it is done. To be sure take a hydrometer reading.
9. BOTTLING: Take one pint of water and boil in saucepan and add 3/4 to 1 cup corn sugar or use 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 cups dried malt extract. The more primer added the stronger the carbonation. You may wish to start with the lower amount and adjust up on your next batch if you like a heavier carbonation. This is the primer for carbonation, which takes place within the bottle. Pour this into the empty sanitized bucket which you have mounted the spigot on.
10. Siphon the beer off the sediment using tubing and racking cane with orange down flow tip (sanitize all equipment) into the sanitized priming bucket which contains the primer mixture. You should have 5 gallons, if you have less don't worry. You can add water to bring it up to five gallons, but this will just water down the beer you do have.
*To start a siphon attach hose to racking cane and hold cane with orange tip upwards and tubing in a "U" shape, then hold end of tubing under faucet and fill entire length with water. Now crimp tubing at end to keep water inside and insert racking cane into fermentor with orange tip down. Place bucket with spigot on ground under you fermentor and let water run down through the tube and this should start the siphon.
11. The siphon will naturally mix the primer sugar with you flat, warm beer. Your beer is now primed and should be bottled immediately!
12.
Now you are ready to bottle using sanitized bottles and caps. Place tubing on installed spigot and attach bottle filler to other end. Turn on spigot and you are ready to bottle. Depress tip on bottle bottom to allow the beer to flow. Fill bottles right to the top and when you remove filler the volume will drop to give you a uniform fill level. Fill bottles and cap with capper.
13. Record bottling date and set aside for at least 2 weeks at room temperature. Aged beer (up to 4 months) can taste better, so try it at different periods of time. If the carbonation level is good after 2 weeks you may want to keep it cool to stall the carbonation at that level.
14. DRINK IT!

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